Sunday, December 28, 2008

Wellington, Part One

(might as well publish these posts I started almost a year ago ...)

After my terrific time in Sydney, I was thrilled to head to Wellington, New Zealand, not least because I was meeting up with a friend. I was ready to chat with someone.

I arrived in New Zealand's capital city on Sunday afternoon, Dec 21. The airport isn't big, which usually means shorter lines. However, the lines for immigration were really really slow. Apparently, five international flights landed at once, creating long queues.

Happily, my friend Deb was waiting for me even though it took an hour longer than expected for me to clear immigration and customs. Here's the weird thing about New Zealand: to come here as a tourist, you need to have "proof" that you have plans to leave the country. A printed airline itinerary is sufficient if it shows your departing flight ... and this is "proof"?

After decompressing on Sunday evening, Monday had me meeting a colleague at the National Library of New Zealand (notice the trend here?). Gordon and I exchanged notes on our latest efforts in digiital library work, and then went for tea. My friend Deb loves tea. One doesn't forget New Zealand's relationship with the British Commonwealth.

I decided to walk in to town to meet Gordon, to get a little exercise. I passed a building with a paint job after my heart:

After meeting with Gordon, I went to Te Papa, the wonderful museum in downtown Wellington. As an added bonus, there's no admission charge.

I was supposed to cross the Cook Strait on Tuesday and swim with the Dolphins near Picton, on the South Island, on Wednesday morning. Unfortunately, I woke up with a migraine on Tuesday. I decided to cancel my excursion and take some down time. I was sorry to give up that experience, but I can easily imagine coming back to New Zealand, focusing on the South Island for a few weeks.

Canberra ... sort of

(might as well publish these posts I started almost a year ago ...)


I went to Canberra for two days to meet with a couple of programmers at the National Library of Australia, Mark Triggs and Steve McPhillips. They've done some great stuff with the open source software we're using at Stanfrd. I was even more impressed with their work after I met with them; I got a potential solution to a problem I'm having; I saw their initial solution to a problem I'll be working on in the future. And, there's no price on a face-to-face meeting for strengthening a connection and expanding working relationships.

Steve and Mark earnestly encouraged me to spend "extra" time in Sydney, rather than Canberra; I shouldn't have listened to them so earnestly. Canberra seemed like a lovely, if quiet, town, and I would have enjoyed visiting the National Gallery of Australia and some of the other attractions in the Australian Capital. So ONE day extra would definitely have been appealing.

On the other hand, I didn't take any photos. But: I was working while I was there, not sight seeing.

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Australia Wildlife World

(might as well publish these posts I started almost a year ago ...)

While my stay in Australia is urban, I wanted to take the opportunity to see some of the native fauna, and the word was that Australia Wildlife World is better for that than the local zoo. Also, I've been afraid to go to a zoo since I was in Africa -- seeing "zoo" animals roaming free, living their lives, reminded me of how constrained and sad is the life of an animal in the zoo.

Anyway, I was horrified to discover that even though AWW was open until 9 p.m., the kangaroo and koala exhibits were only open until 6. I learned this at 5:50 p.m., when I arrived. However, the postings at the admissions counter didn't reflect what was going on at the displays. I made a beeline for the kangaroos, which closed first ... but bumped into koalas first. I was thrilled to be a few feet away from koalas with no fence or glass or plastic between us.


Turns out koalas sleep a LOT.


To my great pleasure, I wasn't too late for the kangaroo exhibit either. The staff person I was speaking to called over the balcony and asked the kangaroo staff person to wait for me, which was awesome.


A Japanese woman behind me wasn't allowed in to see the kangaroos up close and personal, but there was a lot of plastic / glass wall to watch them. We enjoyed the rest of the exhibit together, more or less. She spoke some english.

It turns out that kangaroo balls are pretty darn big and dangly.

Wallabees are apparently a little smaller than koalas.

Butterflies, eh.

There were some other reptile / insects of interest ...

The Rocks ... and a coat

There's a neighborhood in Sydney, on the other side of the passenger dock area from the Opera House, called the Rocks. It's an old neighborhood that has been reinvented into a fun and funky area. There are some good restaurants and some great shops. (Not even a week down here, and it's "shops" not "stores".)

Here is the funky christmas "chair tree", which has some connection with a charity (see sign in photo):



Here's a view of the Harbor Bridge from the Rocks:



An excellent tourist information center is located in the Rocks; I was even introduced to a reptile there:



--------

A friend of mine has taken up riding (horses ... what were YOU thinking?) and asked me to get him a particular Australian brand waterproof riding coat and hat. A little web research unearthed two shops that carry the clothing line; they are both in the Rocks. I found the first store, and the propreitress was extremely helpful. She showed me that the sizes were smaller than USA sizes, and insisted she needed the chest size before she would sell me a coat, because she wanted it to fit properly. She was also very helpful regarding the hat: she informed me that the particular style requested had a soft (floppy) brim, and might not be suitable for riding. But this raises questions: is the brim stiffness more important than the chin strap? It was a bit tricky putting her directly in touch with Bob, since she didn't get email in the store, and I didn't have Bob's phone number. Luckily, she was able to pop into the neighboring shop and use their computer, and also luckily, I knew Bob's easy-to-remember email address. To make a long story slightly shorter: she and Bob eventually connected via telephone and she is mailing him the coat (because she didn't have the right size in stock). GREAT customer service.

Sydney Opera House, Harbor Bridge

After I enjoyed the Royal Botanical Gardens, I followed the water's edge a short distance to the iconic building.



I so wanted to attend a concert or an opera performance, but there wasn't one. I contented myself with walking around the building and poking into the public foyers. Hard to know how well the building actually works for all its various purposes.

It is a wonder from the outside.


Here's what the roof looks like up close. The surface is made of ceramic tiles -- at least that's what they looked like.



The architect had a eureka moment when he figured out he could make the forms he desired from a spherical surface.



There were these neato lights - they seem to have a surface that floats above the funnel thingy on the bottom. I also have no idea what lights up or how they work
.


The parts I saw inside weren't stunning - a celebration of the glory of concrete. Okay, I'm being cruel. Concrete is great; it's really useful. And it was the big material for architecture in some era or other.

The Harbor Bridge:

I didn't go up on it because of an experience I had in Portland, OR. I was walking across a bridge there, and it was one of those metal bridges where you can see what's below in the spaces between the metal. I got about half way across and had some sort of fear-of-heights/vertigo thing: I was suddenly frozen with some irrational fear and unable to walk any further. I didn't want to stand there forever, of course, so I tried to think my way out of the situation. I concluded that I could either get down on my hands and knees and crawl off the bridge or I could run to keep looking ahead, not down, and to get it over with as quickly as possible. Determining my chosen method, and whether I went on or backtracked, I'll leave as an exercise for the reader.

The passenger docks for the Sydney harbor (south side) are nearby, and there's a lot of bustle and a perpetual street fair atmosphere there. But what really struck me were the overhangs for the walk ways. I assumed they were for sun protection. And maybe they were ... but after seeing them in New Zealand, I think they might also be for rain protection ...

Photos .... now working!

News flash (Dec 31, 2008): I'm able to upload photos from Deb's house in Wellington, NZ, so heads up for some new posts.

The internet connection here at my Sydney hotel is clearly challenged when I try to upload photos. So I'll stick to text for now, and go back and add the photos later.

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Sydney - Royal Botanical Gardens

I started Wednesday with a walk in the Royal Botanical Gardens. They're in a lovely setting on one of the points in the Sydney harbor. There's a cool "chair" carved into some sandstone

which looks towards the famous Opera House.

My favorite thing is the fruit bats. They perch everywhere in one section of the garden. I expected them to be dormant during the day, but there was a fair amount of moving around, opening wings to cool off, and even a few scuffles for perches.


The cockatiels wandering around were neat.


Eventually, the mystery of the clear plastic around tree trunks was solved as well.


And yes, there were a few plants to see.



As well as some interesting ... topiary?

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Rice Bubbles?

I love going in grocery stores when I'm in foreign countries. Tonight's discovery: they're called "Rice Bubbles" here (Rice Krispies).

Stumbled onto a wonderful japanese-fusion restaurant for dinner. Small, sat at "sushi bar", watched 6 people in the tiny kitchen. Ordered what the person next to me had, as it looked fantastic. Seared tuna, braised fennel, and beet sauce. Yum!

Weird Numbering of Buildings on Streets

Okay, they stuck with increasing in a single direction and the odds on one side, evens on the other.

BUT: there's no coordination between the two sides of the street. You can be at 379 on the odd side and 182 on the even side. Weird. Harder to navigate.

Monday, December 15, 2008

Australian Museum

Today, I went to the Australia Museum. The was a Wildlife Photography exhibit that knocked my socks off. I had that feeling I get sometimes watching performances or looking at great art - that sense of how much beauty is all around us. It makes me want to cry and hug people.

I bought this cool booklet with all the images I saw. They didn't have many of the ones I really liked on postcards. Some of them were simply arresting. A partial polar bear silhouette, taken at sunrise so all is black except for a few "lines" showing the bear's shape. Snow leopards. A tree frog in a deadly embrace with a tree-snake; "It was a stalemate. Three hours later I realized the the first one to give in would, in fact, be me ... and I went to bed." Some great macaque pictures. Cypress trees. A toadstool in the rain. Have I bored you yet? The images wouldn't.

Here's a couple I saw before I realized I was going to buy something with all the images:

Malaria bumps in red blood cells.











The devastating effects of grazing. The left side is a fenced in area used for grazing ... there is no trick photography.







There are also categories for entries by kids of different ages. The blurbs by these photos often said something like: "I was in Madagascar on vacation with my family ..." or "My dad said to stay really still until I had the photo I wanted, or the Grizzly might come after me ..." implying some privilege in access to wildlife in its habitat as well as access to good photographic equipment. But all of the quotes also had things like "I had to experiment to get the exposure right" or "I was really struck by the yellow head against the black body and had to position myself just right and was lucky the butterfly landed where I needed it" and other things making you realize that these are special, talented kids. Some of the photos did come from their backyards ... but not many.

For good measure, here is a photo I took of a stuffed wombat.

Sydney - Hyde Park

With the long red-eye flight and the time change and all, I kinda just wanted to rest. I remembered when I was in Venice that sometimes I just found a sweet city park and hung out. Sydney has a number of nice parks; Hyde park is nearest to the QVB. I found a bench in the shade, not too close to the nearest busking musician (an accordion player singing christmas carols to his own accompaniment). I opened the wonderful mystery I picked up at SFO ("In the Woods" by Tana French) and simply enjoyed resting and reading outdoors in a lovely spot.

I saw something approach, and looked up, expecting a pigeon or squirrel or something. Imagine my surprise to see an ibis approaching! In fact, there are a bunch of these in the park, hanging out with the pigeons. (See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australian_White_Ibis)

It's these small, "normal" differences that really impress me on these trips. Reminds me of the Buenos Aires zoo: the most interesting creatures were the ones running around free, and then I saw a gray squirrel in a too small exhibit cage. The poor thing -- zoos are great for informing us about the world's animals and creating connections ... but the lucky zoo animals generally have shitty lives. Social elephants living alone. Etc.

Turns out Hyde Park also has a giant chess set that gets used.









As well as a tree that has startling orange flowers.

Sydney - Queen Victoria Building

I walked up to a cool-o building that was mentioned in my guide books and pointed out by my airport-to-hotel taxi driver, the Queen Victoria building. It's a beautiful old building that has been restored, and is now filled with swanky shops. See http://www.qvb.com.au/IPOH/QVB/me.get?site.sectionshow&PAGE448

Aside: I'm kinda weirded out by all the royal street names: King, George, Elizabeth, etc. How did the USA escape all this monarchistic nonsense?

Here are some photos (my camera wasn't charged, so I had to use my phone). The place is 4 stories (well, ground, 1, 2, 3, partial 4, basement), has beautiful iron railings and mosaic floors, and stained glass windows.











I really liked this shark serpent thingy on one of the windows.









There are these really cool clocks suspended; one does its show on the hour, the other on the half hour. (Both these photos are of the same clock)












And a neat iron spiral staircase.

Sydney, Australia - part one

When I left San Francisco, I confess I felt scared and lonely. I soon realized that it's been ages since I've gone somewhere new, where I know no one, and have no pre-organized personal contact for days. My trip to Italy (in 2002?) had a week in Venice like this. I spent a week at Casa Mojanda in Otovalo, Ecuador before I went to the Galapagos, but they had someone waiting for me at the Quito airport and all the guests had delicious breakfasts and dinners together. Much to my surprise, I haven't really been in this situation since then.

The flight from SFO to Sydney went smoothly. I had lovely seatmates (quiet, not too large, kind) and I managed to get a little sleep. Not bad at all. The interesting part was checking in at SFO. Turns out you need a VISA to go to Australia! I had no idea -- again, I haven't traveled anywhere especially interesting on my own in ages. It never occurred to me that I might need a Visa. Luckily, Australian visas are the ONE visa that airlines can issue. I paid my fee, and voila. Whew! Or maybe it was really a scam?

The taxi driver couldn't quite find my hotel, but I did. It turned out to be much swankier than I normally spring for ... AND they charge $25 aust. per day for internet. Rip off! I mildly expressed my displeasure (I didn't raise my voice, I swear!), but was a bit too weary to make much of a stink. The young desk clerk was at a loss; her manager suggested I could go up the street to a coin operated internet place.

I dropped off my bags, and immediately set out for the internet, as I wanted to change hotels. I found a Starbucks; tried to sign up for an account. It didn't seem to work. Suddenly, I was really tired. So I went back to the hotel, paid the stupid money for the wacko wireless modem, and confirmed that if I checked out in the morning, I would only have to pay for the one night.

Found another hotel at about half the price, still in a good location. Maybe a better one, where restaurants are concerned. I caught an adrenaline wave and headed out exploring.